I never tried surfing, myself, although my brother was really into it for a couple of summers. This video makes it easier for me to understand how surfers love it.
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"There are countless horrible things happening all over the world and horrible people prospering, but we must never allow them to disturb our equanimity or deflect us from our sacred duty to sabotage and annoy them whenever possible." -Auberon Waugh
There was a documentary about Duke Kahanamoku on PBS the other night. It was a great tribute to this amazing man. The re-creation scenes were phenomenal. I thought I knew about him after growing up in Hawaii in the '60s...I was very wrong.
ReplyDeleteA friend and I were rowing the little skiff from John Ford's yatch Araner around Ala Moana Harbor. Duke saw us, and invited us over, but my friend said we shouldn't go. I never found out why. Alas.
Duke visited Sydney in 1914 and taught us how to ride surfboards:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.northernbeaches.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/arts-and-culture/manly-art-gallery-museum/collections/collection-stories/duke
There's a statue of him commemorating this:
https://www.travelwithjoanne.com/freshwater/
That visit was covered in the documentary, as was his visit to NZ after wowing OZ.
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